You can get a USB IR receiver and use software like LIRC to map the inputs of basically any remote you have. Setting it up takes a little effort, but it works great when it’s done.

I would sell a few of them to shore up the budget, then use those funds to build a NAS box. You can buy everything other than drives for a few hundred, less if you have spare parts sitting around.

Exactly. Doesn’t matter if they’re wired or wifi, or where they are, as long as they’re on the same network you’re fine.

If you’re only trying to use Jellyfin at home, you don’t need any reverse proxy or domain. All you need is for both devices to be on the same network, and for the Raspberry Pi to have a fixed internal IP address (through your router settings).

On the Shield, you just give the Jellyfin app that IP address and port number (10.0.0.X:8096) to connect and you’re good to go.

For a NAS, you’re usually concerned with capacity first. And you can’t buy a 20TB m2.

You got a remux, which is uncompressed. You can turn those off in Radarr to avoid those surprises.

If you want to fine-tune your file sizes (and quality) further, you can set up custom formats and quality profiles. The Trash Guides explain it well, the “HD Blu-ray + Web” profile on that page is a solid starting point. It’ll usually grab 6-12GB movies, but you can tweak it if you want them smaller.

They’re also surprisingly easy to upgrade for their size. Swapped RAM, CPU, and hard drive in about 15 minutes total on one of mine.

I’ve been happy with DuckDNS. Free, simple, and reliable.

If it was me, I’d just go without parity temporarily and grab another drive for that when I could. A new system should be safe enough for a while, just not forever.

You can interact with a single container if you need to, not just the whole compose group. docker compose restart jellyfin works for your example, and “restart” can be swapped for stop or start as needed.

Splitting compose files can be a good idea, but it isn’t always necessary.