DaGeek247

Honestly? Don’t do the whole switch, or even a big switch from a few services to another.

Start small. Very small. Try doing just one service you rely on, like your images or music. Immich just announced their first stable release. I use navidrome for my music. Make sure to test these on a copy of your data, not your actual data.

Once you’ve got one service working as you want it to do, then you can try your hand at another service. This way, you don’t get stuck trying to do everything all at once.

It may be worth considering how much (if any) you want to spend at the start, too. That’ll inform your next immediate task; setting up basic backups for your data. A spare drive is a good start, but it may be worth keeping another one at your parents house, or similar.

You can switch to windows 10 ltsc and keep getting updates for seven more years.

If you aren’t transcoding, and the player is taking too long to cache the video before starting, you might be having some sort of storage issue. You would need to try a couple of different things to figure out what, specifically, is taking so long to send the video out.

The first thing that comes to mind is that your storage is on an SSD, and it is nearly full. An SSD that is nearly full will usually perform much much worse than it would if it had more space to work with. https://pureinfotech.com/why-solid-state-drive-ssd-performance-slows-down/

The next thing that comes to mind is that your files are stored on the same drive that jellyfin transcodes onto, and it is not using an SSD. If you have jellyfin reading from a single drive, jellyfin encoding to that same drive, and also everything else also running, you might be causing your hard drive to seek a lot in order to get everything up and running. You could test this by changing the jellyfin transcode location to a different storage device.

I’ve also found that page and video loading times tend to be directly affected by the storage medium’s seek times. If you had jellyfin installed on the same hard drive as your videos, it will be slower than if you had installed jellyfin on a ssd separate from the drive you store your videos on. This one wouldn’t likely result in minute loading times though.

You should not be having transcode issues with anything less than four concurrent streams on that server. https://www.reddit.com/r/PleX/comments/1ae6683/intel_n100_vs_ryzen_7_1700_1st_gen_an_interesting/

It’s likely that you have hardware transcoding disabled. Enable it, and these issues should go away. This forum post has good settings in jellyfin for an n100, https://forum.jellyfin.org/t-solved-correct-transcoding-settings-for-the-n100-processor

You should be able to find instructions for enabling hardware encoding in your bios by searching for it with your specific device model.

*edit

Handbrake does a bad job of explaining the difference between software encoding and hardware encoding. Or at least, it felt that way to me when I last used it. You likely were trying to software encode your videos, which, while theoretically makes the end result better quality, definitely won’t be quick on an n100. You’ll want to pick the option that has intel quicksync/qsv in it in order to get the most speed out of your handbrake encodes. https://www.reddit.com/r/handbrake/comments/z2m814/comment/kxu2a8x/

My goal was to never need to touch the settings for any of the HVAC units all year round,

I got a lot more luckier than you. I have a single floor, three bedroom place. All I needed to get my setup to an acceptable level was a programmable thermostat.

The other snag was more fundamental - I don’t think it’s possible to have a perfect temperature, even for one person. If I’m sitting still for long periods, I tend to want warmer temps. If I’m cleaning the house, I want cooler temps.

I set my temps for warmer in the afternoon, cooler in the evening/night, and semi-warm again in the morning. It’s not perfect, but it makes getting to sleep and waking up a lot easier.

First of all, only jellyfin has any overhead worth mentioning. Video is big and takes big hardware if you’re doing anything except the bare minimum. Audio support is basically free in comparison.

I actually tried the jellyfin audio streaming before I switched to navidrome. It worked, but all the apps for it were complete shit, or incredibly feature poor. Also, it had terrible album identification support for my library.

It’s all read only, yes, but I just use a group specifically for NAS access and put users that need it in there.

I use the NFS version from the debian repository; not actually sure which one, and didn’t even know that it mattered.

I had issues streaming directly from one device to the other without transcoding on WiFi. (I know you’re wired! Heard me out.)

I found that, although it didn’t fix the issue, it did help to switch from using SMB to NFS. Something about the way the protocol works meant that SMB had enough of an overhead that it worsened my stuttering issues outside of the spotty WiFi connection. For sure it significantly sped up scrubbing access times as well.

It may not be the issue, but it may be a step worth checking just to see if it is a part of the issue.

For what it’s worth, 4k remuxes can have bitrate spikes well exceeding the limits of a single gbps wire. If you have a player with limited memory, or just limited cache settings, this may also be a part of the problem.

I use https://file.pizza. It’s open source and has password protection options and everything.

It’s very much a thing. https://getcrankshaft.com/

Terramaster had some pretty gnarly security issues that they badly handled in the past. No big deal if you keep it walled off from the internet, but their software would never let you know it should be kept away from any internet access.

Also, if you get one of their units that has an ARM chip inside instead of an intel one, there is basically no chance you’re ever going to be able to use anything other than the software that they have by default. This makes the security issues impossible to resolve without completely removing internet access to the device.

I too was unsatisfied with jellyfin’s music handling. Not only was the website disorganized and bad at using the built-in album art, but all the android music players i could find for it were also barely usable as well.

I can’t use musicbee because it’s windows only. I still want synchronized play history, metadata updates, and everything between my phone, pc, and mp3 player so a single OS software was out of the question.

I use a combination of beets, navidrome, and tempo. Beets is the metadata manager; once i’ve beet imported an album, it’s ready for navidrome to pick it up and serve it to any of my devices. (I have a custom sync script for my mp3 player that does the same). Navidome serves the music to any connected devices, converts it on the fly to lower quality (for low speed phone network situations) and also keeps track of my play counts, and my playlists for me. It’s not nearly as complicated as some of the other setups, which I also prefer.

I use tempo on my phone to connect to navidrome on the go and it has worked out incredibly well so far.

That’s androids fault. Their login input detection is spotty, and has been for a while now. https://9to5google.com/2024/10/06/android-autofill-password-manager-problems/

Honestly, this one. Handbrake was made as a wrapper for ffmpeg anyways.

Usually they just disable all the hdmi ports except for cable and don’t bother to lock the final hdmi port to a specific device. So long as you have a long hdmi cable and nimble hands, it’s not too much effort to just pull out the cable hdmi and put in your own.

Directly to the clients from the already self-hosted server, exactly like all the other media hosting software does. Lmao.

shouldn’t Newegg of all places

Heads up; newegg has been shit for returns for about ten years now. Their monitor return policy in particular is notorious for being bad.

Probably for video streaming. If you’re only ever downloading large amounts of read-once content, you don’t actually need to save any of it.

Posted wrong, here’s my whole story:

I have a single AC damper that is fail-close, but was wired as always powered open by the people who put the AC unit into my house before I bought it. This would be fine, except I live near a meat packing plant, and sometimes the air outside stinks. I want to be able to close and open the damper based on various criteria I get from home assistant. (air quality, direction, speed, etc)

This is the AC damper unit: https://www.resideo.com/us/en/pro/products/air/forced-air-zoning/replacement-actuators/replacement-motor-for-eard-ventilation-damper-m847d-vent-u/

This is the shelly plus uni im trying to use: https://us.shelly.com/products/shelly-plus-uni

And the multimeter says the output power for the damper (which is powered by my AC unit) outputs 30V AC power.

I was able to power the shelly device by just plugging it into the AC power with Red to Red, and Black to Black. However, it turns out the Shelly device does not send that power out through its two switchable outputs. Those are called “dry circuits” apparently.

So my goal is to power the shelly device, the ac damper device, and have the shelly device ALSO switch the damper on and off. I know it’s possible, I just don’t know how.

So, the above diagram is my attempt to wire the shelly device into the setup. However, whenever I power the relay in the shelly device, the shelly device fries itself. So I’m looking for where I went wrong, and how to make it all work.

Give me a bit. I posted wrong, but it’s being written up now.