DaGeek247 of https://dageek247.com
First of all, only jellyfin has any overhead worth mentioning. Video is big and takes big hardware if you’re doing anything except the bare minimum. Audio support is basically free in comparison.
I actually tried the jellyfin audio streaming before I switched to navidrome. It worked, but all the apps for it were complete shit, or incredibly feature poor. Also, it had terrible album identification support for my library.
It’s all read only, yes, but I just use a group specifically for NAS access and put users that need it in there.
I use the NFS version from the debian repository; not actually sure which one, and didn’t even know that it mattered.
I had issues streaming directly from one device to the other without transcoding on WiFi. (I know you’re wired! Heard me out.)
I found that, although it didn’t fix the issue, it did help to switch from using SMB to NFS. Something about the way the protocol works meant that SMB had enough of an overhead that it worsened my stuttering issues outside of the spotty WiFi connection. For sure it significantly sped up scrubbing access times as well.
It may not be the issue, but it may be a step worth checking just to see if it is a part of the issue.
For what it’s worth, 4k remuxes can have bitrate spikes well exceeding the limits of a single gbps wire. If you have a player with limited memory, or just limited cache settings, this may also be a part of the problem.
I use https://file.pizza. It’s open source and has password protection options and everything.
It’s very much a thing. https://getcrankshaft.com/
Terramaster had some pretty gnarly security issues that they badly handled in the past. No big deal if you keep it walled off from the internet, but their software would never let you know it should be kept away from any internet access.
Also, if you get one of their units that has an ARM chip inside instead of an intel one, there is basically no chance you’re ever going to be able to use anything other than the software that they have by default. This makes the security issues impossible to resolve without completely removing internet access to the device.
I too was unsatisfied with jellyfin’s music handling. Not only was the website disorganized and bad at using the built-in album art, but all the android music players i could find for it were also barely usable as well.
I can’t use musicbee because it’s windows only. I still want synchronized play history, metadata updates, and everything between my phone, pc, and mp3 player so a single OS software was out of the question.
I use a combination of beets, navidrome, and tempo. Beets is the metadata manager; once i’ve beet imported an album, it’s ready for navidrome to pick it up and serve it to any of my devices. (I have a custom sync script for my mp3 player that does the same). Navidome serves the music to any connected devices, converts it on the fly to lower quality (for low speed phone network situations) and also keeps track of my play counts, and my playlists for me. It’s not nearly as complicated as some of the other setups, which I also prefer.
I use tempo on my phone to connect to navidrome on the go and it has worked out incredibly well so far.
That’s androids fault. Their login input detection is spotty, and has been for a while now. https://9to5google.com/2024/10/06/android-autofill-password-manager-problems/
Honestly, this one. Handbrake was made as a wrapper for ffmpeg anyways.
Usually they just disable all the hdmi ports except for cable and don’t bother to lock the final hdmi port to a specific device. So long as you have a long hdmi cable and nimble hands, it’s not too much effort to just pull out the cable hdmi and put in your own.
Directly to the clients from the already self-hosted server, exactly like all the other media hosting software does. Lmao.
shouldn’t Newegg of all places
Heads up; newegg has been shit for returns for about ten years now. Their monitor return policy in particular is notorious for being bad.
Probably for video streaming. If you’re only ever downloading large amounts of read-once content, you don’t actually need to save any of it.
Posted wrong, here’s my whole story:
I have a single AC damper that is fail-close, but was wired as always powered open by the people who put the AC unit into my house before I bought it. This would be fine, except I live near a meat packing plant, and sometimes the air outside stinks. I want to be able to close and open the damper based on various criteria I get from home assistant. (air quality, direction, speed, etc)
This is the AC damper unit: https://www.resideo.com/us/en/pro/products/air/forced-air-zoning/replacement-actuators/replacement-motor-for-eard-ventilation-damper-m847d-vent-u/
This is the shelly plus uni im trying to use: https://us.shelly.com/products/shelly-plus-uni
And the multimeter says the output power for the damper (which is powered by my AC unit) outputs 30V AC power.
I was able to power the shelly device by just plugging it into the AC power with Red to Red, and Black to Black. However, it turns out the Shelly device does not send that power out through its two switchable outputs. Those are called “dry circuits” apparently.
So my goal is to power the shelly device, the ac damper device, and have the shelly device ALSO switch the damper on and off. I know it’s possible, I just don’t know how.
So, the above diagram is my attempt to wire the shelly device into the setup. However, whenever I power the relay in the shelly device, the shelly device fries itself. So I’m looking for where I went wrong, and how to make it all work.
Give me a bit. I posted wrong, but it’s being written up now.
Don’t worry about how a video card was used. Unless it was handled by howtobasic, they’re gonna break long after they’re obsolete. You might worry about a bad firmware setup, but you avoid that by looking at the seller rating, not the video card.
there’s an argument to be made that a mining gpu is actually the better card to buy since they never went hot>cold>hot>cold (thus stressing the solder joints) like a regular user would do. But it’s just that; an argument. I have yet to find a well researched article on the effects of long-term gaming as compared to long term mining, but I can tell you that the breaking point for either is long after you would have kept the card in use, even second or third hand.
I know most of the less expensive used hardware is going to be server-shaped/rackmount. Don’t go for it unless you have a garage or shed that you can stuff them in. They put out jet-engine levels of noise and require god tier soundproofing in order to quiet them. The ones that are advertised as quiet are quiet as compared to other server hardware.
You can grab an epyc motherboard that is ATX and will do all you want, and can then move it to a rackmount later if you end up going that way.
The NVIDIA launch has been a bit of a paper one. I don’t expect the prices of anything else to adjust down, rather the 5090 may just end up adjusting itself up. This may change over time, but the next couple of months aren’t likely to have major deals worth holding out for.
Just think of your point that they are using residential IP addresses. How do they get these addresses?
You can ping all of the ipv4 addresses in under an hour. If all you’re looking for is publicly available words written by people, you only have to poke port 80 and then suddenly you have practically every possible small self-hosted website out there.
I have the previous model. It does a great job of playing videos from my server in the other room. It technically can do YouTube, but that’s a pretty horrible experience. It can’t do any other paid streaming services.
But it does do an amazing job of local streaming. It handles most all of the audio and video codecs, and can direct stream just about any video file without too much playing around. I like mine, and definitely recommend it for anyone who also wants a trustworthy local media player.
I got a lot more luckier than you. I have a single floor, three bedroom place. All I needed to get my setup to an acceptable level was a programmable thermostat.
I set my temps for warmer in the afternoon, cooler in the evening/night, and semi-warm again in the morning. It’s not perfect, but it makes getting to sleep and waking up a lot easier.