I’ve ended up with a different one before. only worked with the included motherboard but the guy I gave it to claims to have gotten it running with a modded bios in an overclocker board.

I never was able to use proper technique on a standard qwerty board due to it causing hand pain with extended use and learning colemak on ortho let me lock in the correct finger position and such without harming my ability to type on a staggered qwerty board. except when drunk, I keept trying to type colemak on the qwerty.

probabaly full replacement of the motor controller and user facing hardware. basically a diy ev conversion using tesla motors but converting the tesla itself. you would lose features but they would be lost regardless.

3d print plastic is mostly the same stuff as any other plastic with the same name. Any additives to make it print better are probably also found in your other gadgets or clothes and even food. If you don’t already have as much microplastic in your blood as the rest of us, then I want to live in your town.

Now fiber infused filaments absolutely do leave shit embedded in your skin and dog only knows if you can ever shed it.

Anyway, I don’t know anyone that is actually selling, but one of my friends modified some 3d print models of a dactyl variant to be machined out of a block of aluminum and its really damned nice. Premium but still diy…

I carried a ds through the extent of highschool that it existed for, and 2 3ds’s through post secondary. those things were loaded every day with a line up of little people waiting to say hi I’m so and so and some little catch phrase.

sometimes you need to photograph a real world usage case to demonstrate a product.

not particularly exciting I think I had ‘dog’ one time while distro hopping.

what model are you printing? if it has the cad for adjusting tolerances, print a few to find the loosest one that will hold to some moderately aggressive typing and you should be fine. If its too tight it can be hard to get them off depending on how beefy the stem hole surroundings are. I only really print abs so I don’t know about pla specific but I did a set for a friend in sparkle orange and months in all I hear about them is how much he loves them. I thought they looked kinda mediocre to be honest though, I could have tuned printer more before committing to the whole set. Bambu you probably don’t have to worry about that from what I’ve heard though.

edit: I somehow missed that you mentioned the model right at the beginning…

Damn so jelly… fin

Dunno about him, but for me I forget to update it and then when I remember it can’t update because its so out of date it cant resolve something or other, and I end up having to just reinstall the latest version and jump through hoops to get the users files to show up, and then one time before as well as the most recent one that made me give up database problems occurred and I don’t know how to database.

I’ll have to look in to that. I really need to look into redundancy for a lot of things actually.

This is more or less what I was hoping would be the case. I’ll be pulling down some of the drywall to run Ethernet beween floors so I won’t need to worry about wireless being slower at least. I figure I’ll just try the other blocking options and go with the one I find most pleasant.

I’m not sure how but if nobody has already done it I’ll probably try to figure it out. There are night shifters in the household so I would probably need additional hardware and run a separate testing network since any downtime at all will get the complaining going.

Thanks for the vid. It makes a lot more sense now. I had it in my head to orient it 180 from correct. I keep forgetting you can outsource 3d printing too. I could see doing fdm test fit at home and buying some prints for the finish. I even made metal button caps for some of my controllers this way too so it’s kinda funny I didn’t think of it. I really don’t need another keyboard but it’s quite tempting.

Got any typing clips? I’m feeling a bit disoriented. Also where do you get caps like that?

Hmm. I have a few of these. I’ll have to check if anything important and not backed up is on them.

Holy shit that’s cool.

So I run encrypted drives except for the odd thing where it would be a pain in the anoos, but what would… drive… someone to physically destroy the drives?

Literally the only thing I can think of is having massive amounts of illegal data but what would that even be.

That’s the one. I personally use bazzite which has a bunch of gaming stuff and distrobox ready to go. It’s also possible to switch to or between it and any of the other ublue spins with a couple lines in the terminal. I’m not sure if the silver blue based ones like kinoite are included in that. It’s neat being able to try out some other DE’s like hyprland and switch to something else without doing a reinstall or losing personal data.

For my non gamer family members kinoite has everything they need though.

The downsides I’ve noticed so far to these immutable systems is mainly with things like messing with kernel modules and other deep system stuff. I wanted to enable undervolting without disabling secure boot but that seems to require building the kernel with a couple patches and signing modules with a mok and installing the mok to uefi. Annoying. The ‘workaround’ is seemingly to make your own ublue spin which sounds like a pain but I’ll try it eventually.

Other than that most things that aren’t in flatpak or fedora rpm repos via rpm-ostree can be installed using arch Linux via distrobox. It’s a bit janky at first but it’s seamless after going in the distrobox and doing ‘distrobox-export --app (name of program to launch via terminal)’ I didn’t like it at first but I have come to enjoy being able to use the software availability of arch without updating everything every other day.

It’s more like the people that avoid food contaminated with pesticides and questionably safe additives, but a select few like gnome and *buntu users add it all in anyways either by choice or cluelessness.